Wednesday, May 07, 2008

Memphis: Elvis, Soul, the Blues, and Ole Man River

One of the more pleasant surprises we have had in our travels was our two days in Memphis! We had always meant to stop and see Graceland but it has never been on the top of our list of must do's. This trip worked out with our routing directly through Memphis and a couple of days to spare so Memphis it was.

Jeff's last trip here was in the 1970's and what a change! We stayed at the Graceland RV Park, next door to Graceland and an easy 10 minute drive downtown.

We quickly learned that Memphis has a long history of developing, nuturing, and promoting little known African American artists as they evolved the "Field Hollers" and Negro gospel into soul music and the Memphis style of the blues . Beale street was the center of Negro life in Memphis with black businesses, clubs and a social life for its patrons. Several recording studios including Stax, Hi, and Royal encouraged and supported soul artists and discovered and recorded many of the early stars including WC Handley, BB King, Otis Redding, Al Hayes, Ann Peebles, and Isaac Hayes. Memphis had the first all Black radio station.

Sam Phillips started the Memphis Recording Service in 1950 that lays claim as the birthplace of Rock-and-Roll because of its 1951 recording of Jackie Brenston and his Delta Cats singles recording of "Olds 88". His record label Sun Records recorded several well known recording stars came from Sun Studios including Johnny Cash, Elvis, Carl Perkins, Roy Orbinson, Charlie Feathers, Ray Harris, Warren Smith, Charlie Rich, and Jerry Lee Lewis.Our first morning was spent touring Graceland and we really did get far more involved in all the history and opportunities to relive that early part of our lives listening to many of the Elvis hits available on the tour. After lunch we headed downtown to Beale street, the center of the Memphis revival of its rich musical past and a popular tourist stop with many great eateries and blues clubs. We spent the afternoon strolling Beale street, sitting on the edge of the W C Handley statue listening to a band playing the blues in the WC Handley Park, and enjoying a great New Orleans style meal at King's Palace Cafe while listening to the Blues.
Day two started with a trip to Mud island via monorail for a visit to Memphis's Mud Island River Park including a wonderful Mississippi River Museum, and a 5 block long replica of the Mississippi River from Cario Illinois to New Orleans.
The museum starts with the Indian culture along the river, explores the eraly Spanish and French exploration, the settlement and navigation of the Mississippi including the era of the keelboats, the Paddle Wheelers, has exhibits of the Civil War fight for control of the River, and its current culture and commerce.Leaving Mud Island it was back to Beale street for lunch and a fascinating tour of the Rock n Soul Museum across the street from the famous Wilson Guitar Company. The museum traces Memphis's musical routes as the destination of many Negro and white sharecroppers escaping the grueling life of farming in the south at the turn of the century through the 1950's. With them they brought the music that became the Memphis trademark. You can spend days listening to all the recording of these early musicians but we had to move on.Our last stop of the afternoon was at Sam Phillip's Memphis Recording Service that also became Sun Records. Again we spent a fascinating couple of hours hearing of the early successes and challenges of recording these early rock sessions.Our last evening in Memphis was another trip back in time. Over the years we have had the opportunity to enjoy breakfast at Brennan's in New Orleans and it became one of our favorite stops in the city. Memphis has a very well known counterpart, Owen Brennan's New Orleans restaurant that tries to provide the same Cajun cuisine dining experience. The meal was delightful and Jeff managed to remain somewhat reasonable in his selection with oysters on the half shell, cabbage and asparagus, and..........oh well how can you pass up blackened filet Oscar! Sue was responsible for ordering the Bananas Foster though but she did share! A great final night in what was a delightful visit to Memphis.

Now it is on to Nashville!