Sunday, August 31, 2008

Saying Goodby to Newfoundland

Because of the weather forecast in Nova Scotia we decided to change our reservations and leave on the ferry tonight for North Sydney to have a better chance at seeing the Cabot trail in good weather. We had a leisurely drive down to Port aux Basques including stopping for lunch where Jeff was able to connect our MotoSat and check email for the first time on the island. We arrived at Port aux Basques around 1:00PM and unhooked the CRV to go exploring along the South coast out to Rose Blanche-Harbour le Cou, the end of the highway about 25 miles east of the ferry.By the time we arrived it was pouring so we trekked out to the stone lighthouse in the rain to view the small museum and have a very interesting talk to the guide manning the site.

The people who live along this stretch of this rugged coast have to be of strong, enduring stock; the fishing out of these rocky harbors out to the Grand Banks was a hard way to make a living. Today most families' income is earned by working ore oats and freighters on the Great Lakes as there is no work here with the fishery shut down. The woman working as the guide at the lighthouse is married to a sailor on a tanker that travels the Great Lakes and he works 30 days then is home for 30.
By the time we worked our way back along the coast the weather improved and we got to see the imposing rocks that make up its shores. Towns with names of Burnt Islands and Isle aux Morts (Island of the Dead because of the many shipwrecks along this coast) still exists but with very small populations.We got back and checked in at the ferry to find that the now thrice-delayed ferry would not be leaving until 10:30PM. We spent the evening having dinner in the m/h and visiting with nearby RV passengers. We boarded and departed around 10:30PM. Sue headed for the cabin we had fortunately reserved for some sleep. and after wandering around for an hour or so Jeff joined her. We managed a pretty good five hours sleep until being awoken by the announcement that we would be docking in N Sydney. We disembarked at 4:20AM and drove a couple of miles to a parking area the Brewers had shown us in N Sydney where we went back to sleep until 8:00AM.

Our 25 days in Newfoundland has been very enjoyable; it is a beautiful island with scenic coasts but what truly makes it remarkable is its people. They have a diverse heritage of English, French, Scottish, and Irish ancestors but all consider themselves Newfoundlanders whose families all came to the coasts of Newfoundland for its fishery and whaling and have survived 500 years of hard living.

Newfoundlanders are very friendly; one day we pulled off the TCH and stopped for a moment to check directions. A man immediately stopped and asked where we were going, had us follow him to the campground, and then turned around and went in the direction he was going! We enjoyed our time among them.