Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Back to Newfoundland

We were up early after a restless night’s sleep on a motel mattress listening to everyone around us going to the bathroom or the bar and agreed it would be good to be back in our own bed tonight. We drove back up the coast 15 miles to Point L’Anse Amour lighthouse and museum, one of four imperial style lighthouses in Canada and the second tallest.

The beautiful structure was built to withstand 120MPH winds that are not uncommon on the Labrador Straits. There are 102 steps to the top but the climb is well worth the view of the surrounding area. The lighthouse also includes an extensive museum of the area including several shipwrecks on the immediate coast. We decided on a hike before leaving the lighthouse for the ferry and one of the interesting landmarks are the L'Anse Amour Patch Reefs, mushroom-shaped rocks formed over 530 million-year-old sponges.

We also walked down to the remains of the HMS Raleigh, a British warship that ran aground in heavy winds and fog in the early 1920’s. Fortunately only one of the wrecks in the area resulted in a loss of lives.

We then headed back south and crossed 4 miles back into Quebec to Blanc Sablon to catch the 1:00PM ferry back to St Barbe, Newfoundland. While waiting for the ferry we purchased frozen cod for $5.00 a pound, halibut for $7.00, and individual frozen servings of Cocquile St Jacques for $3.00 each. We are starting to build our cache of seafood to take back with us!The 90 minute crossing is quite enjoyable on the Apollo which was designed for longer crossings and has comfortable accommodations. We hooked back up to the motorhome in St Barbe and headed south around 3:00PM. One of the interesting Newfoundland practices that we have not seen elsewhere is the use of the highway right-of-way for personal use. Once we left St John's and headed west we noticed gardens, wood cutting operations, and storage of lobster traps on a very regularly basis, especially on the west coast of the island. Newfoundland is definitely one of the few places we have been where this can be done without worrying about vandalism or theft; it just isn't the Newfoundland way.

A couple of hours later we chose a beautiful overlook of the Straits of St Lawrence 25 miles south of Port au Choix and set up for the night. The magnificient view is a great backdrop for a relaxing evening and dinner of fresh cod that we purchased at the ferry landing in Blanc Sablon.