Saturday, August 23, 2008

Bogs and Boats

Today turned out to be perfect again as we enjoyed mid 70's temperatures and clear skies. We enjoyed a late breakfast in Rocky Harbour and headed north along the coast about 20 miles to the parking lot for the Western Brook Pond boat tour. The coastal range at this point rises out of the bogs and marshes about 3 kilometers back from the sea.
We were there to take a 2 1/2 hour boat tour that cruises the pond. The park requires the passengers to walk the 3 kilometers back to the boat landing on the west shore of the pond. It is a beautiful walk, much of it on a boardwalk protecting the fauna of the bogs and marshes that stretch back to the coastal range, The last glaciers formed a rolling plain from the mountains to the sea that over time filled with dead plants and animals to form bogs or water filled marshes supporting a rich variety of plant and animal species.The walk took 45 minutes and we had time to read up on the formation of Western Brook Pond. A crack in the earth's crust caused a 10 mile long valley to be formed when the coastal mountain range thrust up out of the sea and over time glaciers scooped out the surface to form a pond that is about 500' deep and winds back through the valley making a spectacular boat trip.The trip was filled with sheer walls rising 2000 feet broken by sub valleys formed by smaller glaciers or waterfalls dropping the water runoff from the top of the plateau to the pond's surface below. Although it was a windy day once we entered the valley the waters calmed and we concentrated on the views.For those with permits there is a dock at the east end of the pond to disembark and climb up out of the valley. The hike takes five days and is not for the weak of body or spirit!
We returned to the docks around 3:30Pm and walked back to the car to finish our exploration of the north end of Gros Morne. We stopped at the wreck of the Ethie, a coastal steamer who ran aground in a storm described as a storm like "no other" in 1919. Fortunately all 98 souls aboard make it safely to shore including a baby carried in a mail pouch. The years seas and storms have not been kind to the remains of the Ethie.Out next stop was at Green Point to stroll the coastal trail along the coast but unfortunately we started at the north end and gave up after a kilometer or so because the trail stayed in the pine trees and prevented views of the coast. We returned to the car and drove to the south end where the trail is out in the open but by then had had enough walking (10k) for the day. We drove out to the point at Sally Cove for a view of the mouth of Bonne Bay to the south.After returning to Rocky Harbour for a dinner of good seafood at reasonable prices at Jackies we headed back to the m/h where Jeff washed the CRV and Sue started packing for tomorrow morning's departure for St Anthony at the North end of the peninsula.